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Featured
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Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Dec 30, 2019
Long Haul on the North Saskatchewan River
Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Dec 30, 2019
Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Dec 30, 2019
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Winter, Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Apr 8, 2019
Booze, Balance and the Art of French Cooking
Winter, Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Apr 8, 2019
Winter, Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Apr 8, 2019
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Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Jun 7, 2018
Rowing Down the Red Deer River
Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Jun 7, 2018
Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Jun 7, 2018
P1190415.jpg
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills
Oct 25, 2017
The Path to Armit River Canyon
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills
Oct 25, 2017
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills
Oct 25, 2017
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Canoeing, Canadian Shield
Sep 29, 2017
Mission: Missi Island
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Sep 29, 2017
Canoeing, Canadian Shield
Sep 29, 2017
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Aug 24, 2017
Three Camps, Three Stories
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Aug 24, 2017
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Aug 24, 2017
Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Jun 30, 2017
Cracked Canoe on the Assiniboine
Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Jun 30, 2017
Canoeing, Parkland & Boreal Transition
Jun 30, 2017
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Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
May 12, 2017
Beaten at Bainbridge River
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
May 12, 2017
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
May 12, 2017
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Canoeing, Canadian Shield
Apr 18, 2017
Six Days on the Badwater River
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Apr 18, 2017
Canoeing, Canadian Shield
Apr 18, 2017
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Hiking, Porcupine Hills, Winter
Feb 21, 2017
Hiking Spirit Mountain
Hiking, Porcupine Hills, Winter
Feb 21, 2017
Hiking, Porcupine Hills, Winter
Feb 21, 2017
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Hiking, Prairies and Badlands
Jan 14, 2017
Life on Mars
Hiking, Prairies and Badlands
Jan 14, 2017
Hiking, Prairies and Badlands
Jan 14, 2017
Canoeing, Porcupine Hills
Nov 24, 2016
Breaking Snail Lake
Canoeing, Porcupine Hills
Nov 24, 2016
Canoeing, Porcupine Hills
Nov 24, 2016
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Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
Oct 10, 2016
Unearthing the Pasquia River
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
Oct 10, 2016
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
Oct 10, 2016
Stormy Killdeer Badlands - Grasslands National Park
Backpacking, Prairies and Badlands
Sep 8, 2016
Escape from Killdeer Badlands
Backpacking, Prairies and Badlands
Sep 8, 2016
Backpacking, Prairies and Badlands
Sep 8, 2016
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Aug 18, 2016
Come Hell or High Water
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
Aug 18, 2016
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
Aug 18, 2016
Canoeing, Porcupine Hills
Jul 14, 2016
Overturned and out of Reach: Seeking Snail Lake
Canoeing, Porcupine Hills
Jul 14, 2016
Canoeing, Porcupine Hills
Jul 14, 2016
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Apr 27, 2016
Sleepless Nights in Cypress Hills
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Apr 27, 2016
Hiking, Prairies and Badlands
Apr 27, 2016
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Backpacking, Porcupine Hills, Winter
Apr 1, 2016
How the Winter Was Won at Steiestol Lake
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills, Winter
Apr 1, 2016
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills, Winter
Apr 1, 2016
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Dec 7, 2015
Moose Lake Misery
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Dec 7, 2015
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Dec 7, 2015
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Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Nov 9, 2015
Back Where We Started
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Nov 9, 2015
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Nov 9, 2015
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Oct 5, 2015
This is the Rice River Canyon
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Oct 5, 2015
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
Oct 5, 2015
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Hiking, Canadian Shield
Sep 23, 2015
Rock-bottom in the Limestone Crevices of Amisk Lake
Hiking, Canadian Shield
Sep 23, 2015
Hiking, Canadian Shield
Sep 23, 2015
Canoeing, Canadian Shield
Sep 7, 2015
Something is Amisk
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Sep 7, 2015
Canoeing, Canadian Shield
Sep 7, 2015
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
Aug 23, 2015
The War of Waskwei River
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Aug 23, 2015
Backpacking, Pasquia Hills
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Backpacking, Porcupine Hills
Jul 30, 2015
Storms and Stones with Father Steeprock
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills
Jul 30, 2015
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills
Jul 30, 2015
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills
Jul 6, 2015
Old Trout Stream in Canyon Country
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Jul 6, 2015
Backpacking, Porcupine Hills
Jul 6, 2015
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May 27, 2015
The Quest for Regina's Water Supply: Buffalo Pound Lake
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May 27, 2015
Hiking, Prairies and Badlands
May 27, 2015
Hiking, Parkland & Boreal Transition
May 22, 2015
Snake Porn at Fort Livingstone
Hiking, Parkland & Boreal Transition
May 22, 2015
Hiking, Parkland & Boreal Transition
May 22, 2015
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Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Apr 24, 2015
Sunrise Hunting Over the Manitoba Escarpment
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
Apr 24, 2015
Backpacking, Duck Mountains
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Mar 24, 2015
Failed Fishing Trips and Photography
Duck Mountains
Mar 24, 2015
Duck Mountains
Mar 24, 2015
P1210259.jpg

Opal Lake, Narrow Hills Provincial Park

In late May, Teish and I took a risky drive on 50 killometres of gravel road – in my totally unfitted sedan sans spare tire – on Highway 913 to Narrow Hills Provincial Park. We stayed one night at a backcountry campsite by the gorgeous blue-green Opal Lake after a two-kilometre hike on the Gem Lakes trail.

The weather was perfect. But there was something sinister afoot: black flies.

Black and Blue at Opal Lake

June 18, 2018 in Backpacking, Parkland & Boreal Transition

Yes, the Gem Lakes — the Google search keyword that drives about 20% of this website's total traffic. But the only story I've written about the Gem Lakes so far is this one, four years ago.

Since then, I've had dozens of camping trips under my belt and have come to the conclusion that the Gem Lakes are an oddity — I'm not saying there isn't an abundance of deep blue lakes throughout northern Saskatchewan, but I have yet to discover anything quite like the Gems.

Jade Lake, Opal Lake, Diamond Lake and Sapphire Lake are all connected by trails within short walking distance of eachother. They are all stocked with different species of trout, and there are three backcountry campsites for public use. They are small lakes, but clear and secluded. They are almost too perfect, so let's find a reason to harp on them, why not?

Day One: Jade Lake under clear skies

Day Two: Jade Lake under overcast skies

Reflections on Opal Lake, Narrow Hills Provincial Park

Reflections on Opal Lake, Narrow Hills Provincial Park

Underside of a Canadian tiger swallowtail (Papilio canadensis)

Underside of a Canadian tiger swallowtail (Papilio canadensis)

Topside of the Canadian tiger swallowtail

Spruce pollen on the shore, which I've always suspected as a contributor to the Gem Lakes' vibrant colour, although I have no science or basic facts to back that up.

The campsite at Opal Lake is pretty glam, complete with picnic tables, fire pits and lots of space for tents. The lake is literally right there, so you have prime access for skinny dippin', skinny fishin', skinny skippin' stones and—you get the point. 

However, by evening the small flying insects we later identified as black flies made their appearance. Black flies are not something I'm well acquainted with as they seem to be in relatively low numbers along the Manitoba Escarpment where I typically frequent. On the other hand, Narrow Hills Provincial Park is a much sandier locale and a fertile breeding ground for these tiny bastards, which come out in periodic flushes throughout spring and summer.

I believe in a prolonged derangement of the senses to obtain the unknown. Just kidding.

I believe in a prolonged derangement of the senses to obtain the unknown. Just kidding.

"The up-swoosh means Progress!"

"The up-swoosh means Progress!"

By morning, the black fly scourge had reached supernatural levels. This trip was my first time trying Woods brand repellent with icaridin instead of DEET, and let me tell you: it doesn't work. At least not with bugs of this ferocity.

We packed up our camp, flailing wildly. The Black Fly Song by Wade Hemsworth is actually a fair portrayal and warning. At one point it seemed the flies' strategy had changed to kill us by suffocation. I received welts on my forehead and a bleeding fat lip, and I am certain that if we stayed any longer, they would have stolen my wallet. I picked specks of fly matter out of my gear for weeks afterward.

The Gem Lakes are always worth visiting, but for all that is good and holy, check the bug report because camping in a cloud of black flies will confine you a tent no different than when camping in a rainstorm.

Tags: Narrow Hills Provincial Park, Gem Lakes, Opal Lake, Jade Lake, Black Flies, Butterflies, Canadian Tiger Swallowtail, Minnows
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